Triggers
All triggers are sent with a 4-40 stainless steel set screw, the end up
and socket down inside the trigger, along with a .050 allen wrench to reach up
through the slot in the back to adjust the set screw. This set screw is adjusted
by eye to stick up approximately .010, but the customer can adjust it up or down
as required to alter reset or eliminate any small gap between the back of the
trigger and the rear edge of the trigger opening. Colt users may have to fit
their triggers and it is expected they would lower that set screw first. Once
the trigger bar is pinned in place the set screw is not adjustable unless it is
turned around, but care should be taken to ensure that the screws thread does
not catch on the guns frame if they do. Once adjusted it should never need to be
adjusted again, as it has a teflon patch which is designed to eliminate
movement.
Triggers;
The cost is $48 for one stainless finish
trigger, $59 for black finish because I have to pay extra to have that done.
USPS raised their rate.
If you are buying MORE than one reduce the amount
by $5 per trigger, I.E. $48 x 2 = $86 for two, or $48 for one stainless finish
plus $59 for one black, etc. The price includes shipping, so please don't add
extra for shipping.
We don't drill holes in the sides, the
spring will show through those holes. The reason for doing that used to be for
lightening in 1911 triggers that were lightened down below 3 lbs, these triggers
are heavy from the factory, and pivot at the top, so they don't NEED lightening.
So the only reason people want
holes is for looks.
Here is a video on installation;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh2v_-87DRM
You can send the money via paypal to partsproduction@gmail.com
Or you can send a money order to;
Glen Linscheid
7610 Trask River
rd.
Tillamook, Oregon 97141
After sending payment, either by paypal or
money order, PLEASE HAVE PATIENCE! THE DAY AFTER WE GET THE MONEY WE SEND THE
TRIGGER! It goes out in the mail. If we get the money Saturday the trigger will
go out Monday. We are honest people, and no one has accused us of not sending an
item that was paid for, so again, please have patience. If you don't get the
trigger within 10 days THEN please contact me. Most people get them within 3-5
days.
Hi, I got this email from a customer in which he asked me to include
instructions to remove the trigger pivot pin from one side only. I'm including
it here. I've never noticed any difference though in retrospect I typically do
remove pins from right to left.
Thank you,
Glen
(Read message below)
Hi, like your triggers very much and recommend them. I am a long-time 07 FFL
manufacturer gunsmith and have done many custom Colt .380's and Sig P238 and
P938 pistols. I am writing to suggest that you may want to amend your
instructions for trigger pin removal. Like the Browning High Power pistols and
some others, the Colt and Sig pistols should always,always,always have the pin
pushed out from the right side to the left, never left to right. The reason for
that is the the pin is not tapered, and the right side hole is a tight
interference fit, while the left hole is a slip fit. That means that once the
pin is pushed free from the press fit on the right side of the frame, it will
easily push thru the slip clearance on the left. If you try to drive it out left
to right, you have to drive the full length of the pin thru the hard press fit,
making it much more likely that you will damage the framed and damage or bend
the pin. On reassembly, you must then slide the pin into the frame from the left
and thru the trigger, and will only have to tap the pin a short distance into
the right frame hole. I use an arbor press or the quill of my milling
machine with a short (1/4') 1/16' diameter punch in a chuck to simply press the
pin from the right side, completely eliminating any chance of dinging the
frame. Making your customers aware of this will minimize difficulties for them,
as well as protecting their frames from needless damage. Thanks for making a
great product at a fair price!
INSTALLATION TIPS;
The most common problem is getting the pivot pin out, all I can do is make
suggestions.
For the most part changing out the triggers is easy, if you can
get the pivot pin out. Some folks have trouble. Use a cup pointed punch, short
is better than long in this case as long will bend. Brownell's sells a short 2MM
cup pointed punch, that's best .(http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=656/Product/CUP-TIP-PUNCHES)
If you are in a hurry find a small NAIL SET
(http://www.acetoolonline.com/Stanley-Hand-Tools-58-111-1-32-Nail-Set-p/stt-58-111.htm)
Use a longer (1/16" )regular punch after you have it moving. Apply penetrating
oil (Kroil is best, but anything from
an auto parts store will do) the night before. After taking the grips off heat
the frame to 200-300 degrees, no more than that! Handle with gloves when hot of
course. By this time you have your 1' to 3' thick wood board (Hardwood is best) laying
on a solid foundation, a very heavy table or better yet concrete. The board has
a hole in it to accept the pin. Put the left side of the frame down on that
board so the pivot pin lines up with the hole. Put the concave point of your
punch on the pin head and whack it good with a heavy hammer, 1 to 2 pound. Once
it starts to move you have it made. If it doesn't move turn the frame over and
try from the other side.
If you can't get it to move don't damage the
frame trying, take it to a
good gunsmith. If he has a good milling machine he can drill the pin out if he
can't drive it out. To make a new pin go to a hardware store and buy a NUMBER
drill, either #46 (.081' diameter) or #45 (.082' diameter) and cut the shank end
to the length you need.
A customer sent the following;
I can verify the trigger also fits the Kimber Micro Carry 9. I'm assuming but it also likely fits the Micro 380. It improved the Kimber more than the Sig given the MASSIVE amount of take-up the Kimber suffered from. Kimber still has a strong trigger pull compared to the Sig, but that will need to be addressed from another upgrade/polish/spring change.
Anyone else want to change out a trigger in a small Kimber?
Thank you,
Glen and Dorothy
Here are suggestions for removing stubborn pins;
#1 solution is to not
ding it up at the beginning. If you "head" the end of' the pin like a rivet it
will be hard to get it out. To keep from heading the'pin use a concave pin. You
can order one from Brownell's'
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/cup-tip-punches-prod656.aspx
part number 080-620-003WB'Model 3 .072" (1.8mm) diameter/long length Or go buy a
nail set, a good one by Starrett with a cup point;
http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-800C-Square-Head-Length-Diameter/dp/B000VDTJ8U/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1361327868&sr=1-6&keywords=starrett+nail+set'
Then the night before, soak the ends of the pins with a good
penetrating'oil, Kroils is best, but they are all pretty good. Let it sit
overnight'soaked in penetrating oil.'
Get a hardwood board, go to a
hardware store and tell them you need just a little block of wood, a board maybe
3/4" thick by 6" square, or larger,'whatever. Drill a 1/4" hole in the board so
when you lay your frame on it'the pin can go into the hole, easier to keep from
losing it too.'
If you have a propane torch heat the frame up a bit, just
200-300 degrees,'that won't hurt anything, but make sure you don't heat up any
springs,'springs don't like heat. Use gloves and lay it on the board and put the
cup'point of the punch or the cup point nail set on the pin head, I really
don't' think it matters what side, and whack the pin with a heavy hammer.'
Once you get the pin to start moving you are past the worst part, use
a'1/16" punch to drive it out, the nail punch won't do more than get
it'started.'
If nothing works I can drill the old pin out for you for $50
or so. You can legally send a gun unloaded to a non FFL for repairs. Put it in a
flat rate'box at the post office, don't tell them it's a gun, tell them it's a
machine'(That's true!, but they won't ask) and insure it's value. I don't really
want to do that but will, I'll need $50 for the job and'another $20 to send it
back.'
E-mail address: partsproduction@gmail.com