AS of 4/25/2014 all types of triggers are in stock..
November 2015 all triggers are sent with a 4-40 stainless steel set screw, the
end up and socket down inside the trigger, along with a .050" allen wrench
to reach up through the slot in the back to adjust the set screw. This set screw
is adjusted by eye to stick up approximately .010", but the customer can
adjust it up or down as required to alter reset or eliminate any small gap
between the back of the trigger and the rear edge of the trigger opening. Colt
users may have to fit their triggers and it is expected they would lower that
set screw first. Once the trigger bar is pinned in place the set screw is not
adjustable unless it is turned around, but care should be taken to ensure that
the screws thread does not catch on the guns frame if they do. Once adjusted it
should never need to be adjusted again, as it has a teflon patch which is
designed to eliminate movement."
The cost is $40 for one stainless finish trigger, $50 for black finish because I have to pay extra to have that done.
If you are buying MORE than one reduce the amount by $5 per trigger, I.E. $35 x 2 = $70 for two, or $35 for one stainless finish plus $45 for one black, etc. The price includes shipping, so please don't add extra for shipping.
We don’t drill holes in the sides, the spring will show through those holes. The reason for doing that used to be for lightening in 1911 triggers that were lightened down below 3 lbs, these triggers are heavy from the factory, and pivot at the top, so they don’t NEED lightening. So the only reason people want holes is for looks.
Here is a video on installation;
You can send the money via paypal to firstname.lastname@example.org
Or you can send a money order to;
7610 Trask River rd.
Tillamook, Oregon 97141
After sending payment, either by paypal or money order, PLEASE HAVE PATIENCE! THE DAY AFTER WE GET THE MONEY WE SEND THE TRIGGER! It goes out in the mail. If we get the money Saturday the trigger will go out Monday. We are honest people, and no one has accused us of not sending an item that was paid for, so again, please have patience. If you don't get the trigger within 10 days THEN please contact me. Most people get them within 3-5 days.
Hi, I got this email from a customer in which he asked me to include instructions to remove the trigger pivot pin from one side only. I'm including it here. I've never noticed any difference though in retrospect I typically do remove pins from right to left.
(Read message below)
Hi, like your triggers very much and recommend them. I am a long-time 07 FFL manufacturer gunsmith and have done many custom Colt .380’s and Sig P238 and P938 pistols. I am writing to suggest that you may want to amend your instructions for trigger pin removal. Like the Browning High Power pistols and some others, the Colt and Sig pistols should always,always,always have the pin pushed out from the right side to the left, never left to right. The reason for that is the the pin is not tapered, and the right side hole is a tight interference fit, while the left hole is a slip fit. That means that once the pin is pushed free from the press fit on the right side of the frame, it will easily push thru the slip clearance on the left. If you try to drive it out left to right, you have to drive the full length of the pin thru the hard press fit, making it much more likely that you will damage the framed and damage or bend the pin. On reassembly, you must then slide the pin into the frame from the left and thru the trigger, and will only have to tap the pin a short distance into the right frame hole. I use an arbor press or the quill of my milling machine with a short (1/4”) 1/16” diameter punch in a chuck to simply press the pin from the right side, completely eliminating any chance of dinging the frame. Making your customers aware of this will minimize difficulties for them, as well as protecting their frames from needless damage. Thanks for making a great product at a fair price!
The most common problem is getting the pivot pin out, all I can do is make suggestions.
For the most part changing out the triggers is easy, if you can get the pivot pin out. Some folks have trouble. Use a cup pointed punch, short is better than long in this case as long will bend. Brownell's sells a short 2MM cup pointed punch, that's best .(http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=656/Product/CUP-TIP-PUNCHES)
If you are in a hurry find a small NAIL SET
Use a longer (1/16" )regular punch after you have it moving. Apply penetrating oil (Kroil is best, but anything from an auto parts store will do) the night before. After taking the grips off heat the frame to 200-300 degrees, no more than that! Handle with gloves when hot of course. By this time you have your 1” to 3” thick wood board (Hardwood is best) laying on a solid foundation, a very heavy table or better yet concrete. The board has a hole in it to accept the pin. Put the left side of the frame down on that board so the pivot pin lines up with the hole. Put the concave point of your punch on the pin head and whack it good with a heavy hammer, 1 to 2 pound. Once it starts to move you have it made. If it doesn’t move turn the frame over and try from the other side.
If you can’t get it to move don’t damage the frame trying, take it to a good gunsmith. If he has a good milling machine he can drill the pin out if he can’t drive it out. To make a new pin go to a hardware store and buy a NUMBER drill, either #46 (.081” diameter) or #45 (.082” diameter) and cut the shank end to the length you need.
A customer sent the following;
"I can verify the trigger also fits the Kimber Micro Carry 9. I’m assuming but it also likely fits the Micro 380. It improved the Kimber more than the Sig given the MASSIVE amount of take-up the Kimber suffered from. Kimber still has a strong trigger pull compared to the Sig, but that will need to be addressed from another upgrade/polish/spring change."
Anyone else want to change out a trigger in a small Kimber?
Glen and Dorothy
Here are suggestions for removing stubborn pins;
#1 solution is to not ding it up at the beginning. If you "head" the end of the pin like a rivet it will be hard to get it out. To keep from heading the pin use a concave pin. You can order one from Brownell's
part number 080-620-003WB Model 3 .072" (1.8mm) diameter/long length Or go buy a nail set, a good one by Starrett with a cup point; http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-800C-Square-Head-Length-Diameter/dp/B000VDTJ8U/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1361327868&sr=1-6&keywords=starrett+nail+set
Then the night before, soak the ends of the pins with a good penetrating oil, Kroils is best, but they are all pretty good. Let it sit overnight soaked in penetrating oil.
Get a hardwood board, go to a hardware store and tell them you need just a little block of wood, a board maybe 3/4" thick by 6" square, or larger, whatever. Drill a 1/4" hole in the board so when you lay your frame on it the pin can go into the hole, easier to keep from losing it too.
If you have a propane torch heat the frame up a bit, just 200-300 degrees, that won't hurt anything, but make sure you don't heat up any springs, springs don't like heat. Use gloves and lay it on the board and put the cup point of the punch or the cup point nail set on the pin head, I really don't think it matters what side, and whack the pin with a heavy hammer.
Once you get the pin to start moving you are past the worst part, use a 1/16" punch to drive it out, the nail punch won't do more than get it started.
If nothing works I can drill the old pin out for you for $50 or so. You can legally send a gun unloaded to a non FFL for repairs. Put it in a flat rate box at the post office, don't tell them it's a gun, tell them it's a machine (That's true!, but they won't ask) and insure it's value. I don't really want to do that but will, I'll need $50 for the job and another $20 to send it back.